WelcomeWe created this page to help buyers and breeders and will be adding more articles over time.
If you are a Listed Breeder, feel free to send us any timely, helpful pieces you have written and our Board will consider their inclusion! |
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Dog / Puppy Management
By Karin Klouman
Nutrition
We feed a good quality, well-balanced kibble (Purina Pro Plan / PPP) and do not supplement.
Vaccinations
We do annual Bordetella vaccinations (or rather every 8-10 months or so; since we run a boarding kennel and are often at shows). I do 3 sets of puppy vaccinations at 8 to 12 weeks and at 16 weeks, we only do Parvo and Distemper. At 18 to 20 weeks, we do a Rabies vaccine. We do not do Lepto or Corona vaccinations unless there is a 'break-out' in the local area. Also, we do not do the Lyme vaccine since it is not an effective vaccine. We then do another booster at approximately 2 years age and again at 5 years. Thereafter only Rabies every 3 years (quite unnecessary I think but mandated by law). We do not do the neurotoxin drops if at all possible, despite our area (Ontario, Canada) becoming endemic for Lyme. We prefer treating with antibiotics if we find a tick attached - and blood tests for Tick Born Disease (TBD) if we are concerned. (More...)
By Karin Klouman
Nutrition
We feed a good quality, well-balanced kibble (Purina Pro Plan / PPP) and do not supplement.
Vaccinations
We do annual Bordetella vaccinations (or rather every 8-10 months or so; since we run a boarding kennel and are often at shows). I do 3 sets of puppy vaccinations at 8 to 12 weeks and at 16 weeks, we only do Parvo and Distemper. At 18 to 20 weeks, we do a Rabies vaccine. We do not do Lepto or Corona vaccinations unless there is a 'break-out' in the local area. Also, we do not do the Lyme vaccine since it is not an effective vaccine. We then do another booster at approximately 2 years age and again at 5 years. Thereafter only Rabies every 3 years (quite unnecessary I think but mandated by law). We do not do the neurotoxin drops if at all possible, despite our area (Ontario, Canada) becoming endemic for Lyme. We prefer treating with antibiotics if we find a tick attached - and blood tests for Tick Born Disease (TBD) if we are concerned. (More...)
| Dog & Puppy Management |
HOW WE KEEP OUR VERY SENIOR KYON DOGS LIVING WELL INTO THEIR TEENS
by Karin Klouman
We are often asked how we manage to keep our dogs living so very late- and quite happily- into their senior TEENAGE years. Here are a few of the basic 'rules' that we follow in order to keep our dogs going strong, for such a long time. It is not a complicated feat for us to ensure that our dogs live a very productive and healthy life, usually well into their teenage years. The genetic make-up for longevity is mostly present in our dogs, and this is further helped by a common-sense approach to caring for our beloved canine companions:
1) Regular exercise and careful weight management. Old dogs need to feel as if they have a full belly in order to be happy. This can most easily be achieved by making sure they are fed a low caloric kibble or by adding some tidbits, high in fibre - such as vegetables (i.e., green string beans) or canned pumpkin (no sugar or additives/preservatives) to their regular meals. We try to keep the weight down so that our old dogs will be more eager to exercise and therefore will keep well-muscled, to support those aging joints and keep the heart healthy. However, if our seniors feel as if they are 'starving' then they will become stressed - and so we always try to make sure our old guys are well satisfied. (More...)
by Karin Klouman
We are often asked how we manage to keep our dogs living so very late- and quite happily- into their senior TEENAGE years. Here are a few of the basic 'rules' that we follow in order to keep our dogs going strong, for such a long time. It is not a complicated feat for us to ensure that our dogs live a very productive and healthy life, usually well into their teenage years. The genetic make-up for longevity is mostly present in our dogs, and this is further helped by a common-sense approach to caring for our beloved canine companions:
1) Regular exercise and careful weight management. Old dogs need to feel as if they have a full belly in order to be happy. This can most easily be achieved by making sure they are fed a low caloric kibble or by adding some tidbits, high in fibre - such as vegetables (i.e., green string beans) or canned pumpkin (no sugar or additives/preservatives) to their regular meals. We try to keep the weight down so that our old dogs will be more eager to exercise and therefore will keep well-muscled, to support those aging joints and keep the heart healthy. However, if our seniors feel as if they are 'starving' then they will become stressed - and so we always try to make sure our old guys are well satisfied. (More...)
| Senior Dog Care |
The Correct Golden Retriever Coat
Written by Karin Klouman on behalf of the GRCC Breed Standard/Judges’ Education Committee
An open letter to breeders and judges: What could be more glamorous than this image: A handsome golden retriever, running happily through a field; a spectacular dog with a shiny, silky and soft coat, glowing in the sunlight—complete with long feathering, flowing in the wind?
Yes, indeed, what could be more glamorous, but what could in fact be more incorrect? The Golden Retriever Club of Canada’s Breed Standard Committee wishes to urge both breeders and judges alike: Please pay attention to the breed-standard description of the correct Golden retriever coat, as this is of utmost importance for a hunting dog.
To quote the standard:
"Dense and water repellent with good undercoat. Texture not as hard as that of a shorthaired dog, nor as silky as that of a setter. Lies flat against body and may be straight or wavy. Moderate feathering on back of forelegs and heavier feathering on front of neck, back of thighs and underside of tail. Feathering may be lighter than rest of coat..." (More...)
Written by Karin Klouman on behalf of the GRCC Breed Standard/Judges’ Education Committee
An open letter to breeders and judges: What could be more glamorous than this image: A handsome golden retriever, running happily through a field; a spectacular dog with a shiny, silky and soft coat, glowing in the sunlight—complete with long feathering, flowing in the wind?
Yes, indeed, what could be more glamorous, but what could in fact be more incorrect? The Golden Retriever Club of Canada’s Breed Standard Committee wishes to urge both breeders and judges alike: Please pay attention to the breed-standard description of the correct Golden retriever coat, as this is of utmost importance for a hunting dog.
To quote the standard:
"Dense and water repellent with good undercoat. Texture not as hard as that of a shorthaired dog, nor as silky as that of a setter. Lies flat against body and may be straight or wavy. Moderate feathering on back of forelegs and heavier feathering on front of neck, back of thighs and underside of tail. Feathering may be lighter than rest of coat..." (More...)
| The Correct Golden Retriever Coat |
